MTB

Mountain Bike brakes, adjustments and differences – Technical guide MTB


MTB brakes or brake system, allow us to stop the mountain bike in movement and their effectiveness may depend on a fall or the outcome of a performance both in cross country and even more so in down hill.

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Adjusting levers

Should be angled at about 45 degrees with the vertical to allow 1 driving ’ even standing on the pedals. The knife holder on the handlebar, together with that of the shifters, must allow the lever to move after a fall without breaking: then it will be our job to bring it back in place with a few shots with the Palm of your hand.

Distance ski-circle, through the d screw plug of the cable to the lever ’:

keep the log screwed half’ of the thread, regardless of the distance initially chosen through the cable clamp on the brake body. In this way, without going to the saddle we can increase the distance ski-circle by tightening the log if a collision has sent out the wheel centre, the circle touches the wrong shoes, but, When worn (especially in case of rain and mud), We will also be able to bring your skates at the correct distance by unscrewing the register.

-Handlebar lever distance, to adjust the lever to the length of our fingers, by tightening the screw inside the body will approach the lever on the handlebar: the optimal distance is when with the middle finger extended, the lever located between the second and third phalanx.

Progression of leverage, only present on some levers (for example, Avid SD or V-brake Shimano), This adjustment makes it possible to move the anchor point of the cable to the lever by adjusting the length of the “lever”: lever rotation pin-anchor cable, allowing you to vary the progression of brake pads from embossed strength on the rim. This adjustment is made Avid levers by manually rotating the screw near the’ cable connection on the lever: by unscrewing it, will approach the anchor point of the cable to the lever pivot by decreasing the amount of cable pulled: in this way you will need to keep your skates close to the hoop more than normal, but the slowdown will be more adaptable. The Shimano Deore XT and XTR speech is slightly different. In fact, the adjustment can be done by removing or inserting shims to the anchor point of the cable, or by turning a screw that moves: with all these you get maximum traction cable throughout 1′ lever movement, while removing, After a first part of the lever path, the anchor point of the cable will move’ approaching to the rotation pin of lever: a real operation “progressive” It does close all’ early brake pads allowing you to keep them off to avoid accidental rubbing (Let us not forget that under load such as climbing the rear triangle and wheel post. Flex often going to accidentally touch the shoes), but, upon reaching the surface of the circle, the quantity’ pull cord decreases to dose better braking. The adjustment is still completely subjective and there ’ is a preferable.

L’ last type of levers to be examined are the Shimano M-600.

Here there is a pivot fixed with a screw can be positioned in three ways, from High to Low. The Low position match the minimum draught as amount of cable, the location of High maximum draught.

Brake adjustments

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Here will be treated only the brake systems with draw cord, divided into two main categories: cantilever and V-brake (made famous by Shimano but existing, such as Marinovative Cheap-trick specific to full-suspension)

Cantilever

Have some difficulty in orientation of shoes, But if properly adjusted and with appropriate shoes can be very effective and adaptable. Here the orientation of skates takes place by loosening the hex nut on one side, but at the same time locked the Allen screw at the other end. It is always advisable to loosen the nut by far enough to allow moving the shoe pin cot but ensuring that this stays in place when you leave. Thus you should always try to tap the greater possible surface of the skate on the rim, and the front of the shoe should be closer to the hoop so while braking, the rotation of the wheel rim and to skid to close ports tighten it better.

freno-cantilever

This will also avoid the annoying whistle while braking that you hear sometimes. Pay attention then that the shoe does not touch the tire and that with powerful braking the shoe will not fall below the rim braking surface, telescoping dangerously. The method described here applies to most Shimano cantilever, Although other homes have different shoe clamping systems (Onza, Dia-Compe…). On one of the bodies also brake, There is a screw to return spring preload and scales the distance of skates from the circle: screw it, We will dismiss the caliper from the circle.

V-brake

The development of the V-brake is simplest of cantilever: After 1 installation of chassis and brake cable has been established on the body where there is the clamp to desired length, all that remains is to orient the skates and balance the distances of these from the circle. The orientation of shoes usually takes place by loosening a screw placed at right angles to the surface of the shoe until the skid can move but remaining in the assigned position after this move in the crib without having to tighten the screw. In this way we take the caliper inward so that the pad touches the circle, and we'll try to orient it so that the pad touches with the greater possible surface circle, and placing the lower bound of the skate to lower edge of the braking surface on the rim to avoid the cover mounted on the rim is damaged during the motion of the means of rubbing on skates. Check, however, that pulling the lever with strength shoes do not slip below the rim braking surface as this can be very dangerous…

freno_vbrake

The second adjustment is, Once mounted ready to use brakes, to have your skates at the same distance from the rim. The operation is carried out depending on the type of brake in two ways: by turning the screws on both bodies brake, or by preloading the brake return spring by loosening the screw that locks the caliper on the PIN, bringing down the caliper, and refastening the screw (Avid Single Digit). The most frequent case is however the first, and just tighten the screw which preloads the return spring on one of two bodies that automatically, After pulling the brake lever, This body will be spaced.

Sometimes for 1 ' cable friction into the sheath, After pulling the lever completely we could see the bodies brake being locked on the rim even if the lever has been released (attention unless you are wedged shoes under the rim for a wrong setting in position). In that case you should rather fluid oil the cable and you can tighten the screws on the brake while keeping balanced precharge distances to increase return of brake.

From last, It recalled that another way to adjust the brake return spring preload is to move the spring pin (You must first remove the caliper from the pivot to frame) on another of the three holes on the PIN: in highest position corresponds more preloads and then is greater strength to pull the brake lever, But even more body brake force, especially useful in case of mud, to prevent this tends to close the brake.