Outdoor

Barmasse and wall climbing in the difficult day Gottler Shisha Pangma 8,027 M


On the first try, Hervè has risen in a few hours the south wall of the fourteenth highest mountain in the world. As announced on departure from Aosta climber 39, that has led climbing partner German David Goettler, in Sun 13 hours and in Alpine style (without fixed ropes and pre set up fields) He climbed the 2.200 meters of the difficult South face of Shisha Pangma (8.027).

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Parties at 4.45 am on Sunday morning from quota 5.850 m, the two arrived at an altitude 8.024 at 17.45, taking advantage of a window of good weather limited to less than 24 hours.

"And the best moment – were the first words spoken on the satellite phone after the firm by Barmasse, The North Face athlete Team – It was just when near the Summit, looking at lclock, We understand how little time we were climbed. Not as a matter of record, but of ability to make the most of the few hours of good weather and our physical and mental commitment. Talk about Alpine style, in the Himalayas is easy, but to have the courage to practice it on a mountain so big, is a ’ else. Very few mountaineers in the world they got it and start my experience at altitude 8000 in this way it is very significant for me”.

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A climb “specimen” to Barmasse, especially when you consider that the Himalayan mountaineering ’ practiced by 99,9% climbers still follows normal streets, with oxygen, fixed ropes. Another display of courage, mental clarity the two climbers l ’ have demonstrated a few steps from the Summit 8.027 m, for a looming danger of avalanches.

“There were less than three meters to be on the highest point of the mountain, Maybe just a frame of snow, but with every step the snowpack is assumed with noises. We looked at each other and nodded d ’ understood we were back on our steps, safe to enjoy the scenery and take a picture of a head. I am sure that very few mountaineers you would mention this problem, but we would like to stress this because those 2/3 meters, just three steps, they could make the difference between life or death ".

Climb mountains cleanly and at the same time maintain lucidity and responsibility for their own actions are the best example for future generations ’. The "baggage" of Barmasse and Goettler foresaw a tent, lots to share feather in an emergency, a gas cooker 500 grams, a saucepan, 4 gel, 4 fingers, a chocolate, 5 herbal teas, 2 ice-head nails, 2 Spades, 25 meters of rope and 6 carabiners. The two were completely alone, then there would have been no possibility of rescue in the event of an accident.

With the climb within hours of the South face of the 14 ith the world's highest mountain Barmasse achieve a successful enterprise and ’ only Gottler Erhard Loretan (the third climber to climb all fourteen 8000) Jean Troillet and Wojciech Kurtyka.

"Behind this climb cwas a great desire for redemption after my two recent accidents, and the desire to prove that you can stand and that nothing is impossible ".

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